Sir Oscar Wilde said, “A good tie is the first serious step in life.” And like many Quotes about men's fashion and styleIts breezy exterior hides something deeper.
A sturdy tie in general, and a well-tied, self-tied necktie in particular, is one of those things that is a lot harder to pull off than one might imagine, and is in common with other fuzzy beginnings—something like a clean wet shave, for example. , or mastering the loading and unloading of the dishwasher - represents a rite of passage into a well-balanced, learned adulthood.
Are we investing too much weight in what is, after all, just a strip of fabric deftly wrapped around a shirt collar? None of that. No garment has the power to completely change a man's appearance and overpower his self-confidence black tie. Just look at Prince Harry (on his elegant way to his wedding) or Javier Bardem (classically elegant at the Cannes Film Festival) for two prime examples of this truism. And each piece of resistance? Their neckties are clear.
"The dress code is superficially the same," says the tailor and designer. Timothy Everest. “But when everyone else is wearing a black tie, you can always take note of the anecdotal details, and pick out those who made an effort and did it right from those who didn’t.”
Read on to find out how you too will stand out from the crowd at the next official event. From tying it to the right ways to wear it, it's time to get serious about it The best neckties. [embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8qlp0an4XQ[/embed]
How to tie a bow tie
There are six steps to tying a tie that will turn you, as American songwriter Irving Berlin put it, into a "million dollar soldier." However, in the same way only you will know How to tie a tie By distinguishing one working end from the other, it is essential to know the anatomy of the bow before diving into the neck first.
The first step
Pull the tie until one side reaches the other side's groove (known as the "neck"). If you're right-handed, the longest side should be the right, and vice versa if you're left-handed.
The second step
Fold the longer side of the tie over the shorter side, crossing at the strap just above the "leaf" of the tie. Go down the center and across, pulling tight enough that you can feel it, but so that you don't pinch your neck (or block any airways). Bring the longer side (the one you pulled through) over your shoulder.
The third step
Mirror face and fold the other side horizontally so the neck of the tie is centered so it resembles the shape of the finished product.
The fourth step
Bring the long end back in, and pull it down perpendicular to the other horizontal spread. This will form the center knot, so this motion should only use the material on the tie strap, not the paper.
Fifth step
This motion will create a small gap between the initial knot and the back of the neck of the horizontal spread. Bring the vertical spread under the horizontal spread and push through the hole with your thumb. Loosen it gently, making sure not to twist it as it goes.
Sixth step
Once you're done, stand in front of the mirror again and pull it tight with your hand on each folded end. Then play with it until you are satisfied. Don't worry if it's a bit uneven—this is a sprezzatura-style top note of imperfection that'll notice that a) it's a bona fide DIY job, and b) booty booties like you have things more high on their minds than hospital corners.
History of the bow tie
Like many of today's mainstays — duct tape and microwaves — black tie as we know it had its beginnings in the military before civilians got involved. Early iterations of the necktie appeared around the necks of Croat mercenaries during the Thirty Years' War in the 17th century; They wore a knotted scarf around their necks designed to keep their collars in check shirts from open palpitations (presumably to distract them from their swordplay).
Upper-class French gentry took notice of and adopted the item—under the name 'cravat', derived from the French for Croat—during the 18th and 19th centuries when neckwear made of silk or large grain became fashionable. de rigueur. This eventually led to the tie as we know it today and the classic four-in-hand tie. And while the whole concept of an evening dress might be considered a bit modern now, it was originally corny. It dates back to the time when men devoted most of their day to horses—riding and grooming them—and a change of clothing was necessary so as not to track the scent of mature horses onto the dining table or ballroom (for this dinner jackets should always be with or without side slits, as The central air vent brings back a metaphorical whiff of imaginative endeavor.)
How to design a bow tie
Got a hold of yourself? Then we can move on to black tie traditions. Alan Flusser, author man dress upsays that a fastened tie should always be narrower than one's width face shape, but wider than the outer edges of the eye. Ideally, you should avoid adjustable straps (especially if you wear a wing collar) in favor of a custom number to measure in your neck size.
Speaking of collars, Marcella is classic British dress shirt Material; It's a clean, dimpled fabric with a stiffness that makes it ideal for pep front shirts. The front pleats are lighter, while the simple cotton piqué is easy but secure. Ruffles should only be tried on by the incorrigible fashionista (or Ryan Gosling).
Whether you choose to stud or button a shirt is a matter of taste (but plain platinum or garnet studs will never let you down), as is whether you're going for a wing collar or a turn-down collar, but no matter which collar you choose, the cuffs should always be double and buttoned with cuff links. And it's perfectly fine to untie and let it dangle loosely, Rat Pack-style, at what Flusser calls the evening's "cigar end" (although you might want to think twice before literally undoing all those man-hours worth of skills gained). hard on it).
Alice made this
3 main bow tie styles
classic
When in doubt, make it timeless, or at least as timeless as anything that's been knocking around for 300 years or so can be: a chunky black tie, clean studded front shirt, lapel shirt or shawl-collar dinner jacket (See Justin Timberlake in the "Suit and Tie" stage, Brian Ferry in the Lounge Lizard stage, or Cary Grant in any stage at all for further explanation.)
contemporary
Of course, you're free to experiment, but we advise against, for example, wearing a red carnation instead of black tie (aka "going full Jared Leto"). Instead, try a midnight blue velvet tie with a matching dinner jacket, a la Donald Glover (which looks tantalizingly darker under artificial light than black tie itself). This may also be an opportunity to try out some garter motifs—a large butterfly, for example, or a diamond head.
fashion
You'll notice here that we avoided the word "creative", which provided license to abuse a perfectly valid dress code for those loners and rebels - you know who you are - whose concept of "black tie" is a black tie and shirt with a dinner jacket, or - worse - without tie at all. There are more subtle ways to tinker with the formula while preserving the point; Try a silk jacquard tie, or a knitted silk pique example, for that extra dash of elan that's both playful and loyal.
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