Well, I'll admit it, I was nervous about using a Japanese Onsen. I'm not a big nudist. In fact, I think the best time to be naked is when you're wearing a lot of clothes, maybe a coat.
So, undressing and bathing in front of a group of old Japanese men, not to mention a few fellow travelers with whom I previously shared miso soup and had to make small talk with for the next ten days, filled me with a kind of apprehension that appears strangely in heartfelt bravado (i.e. lies).
“Onsen? Oh yeah I've been three times. It was great! Didn't you see me? Oh. You must have entered then. Man, how good are those traditional Japanese baths, I'm right? "
An onsen, for those who don't know, is a traditional Japanese bathhouse where you sit in piping hot water and get cleaned from the outside in. So, to save you embarrassment and prepare you for what you'll find lurking in the steam, I've put together this guide. Let's get it onsen.
Enjoy a traditional onsen experience on an intrepid trip to Japan!
1. You will be naked. So would anyone else
It may seem counterintuitive, but there were a number of people on our trip, honestly myself included, who were expected to be allowed to wear swimming pools. “No,” we were told by our guides Sylvia, “you enter when you come into this world.” To clarify, this means naked and not screaming.
I've heard that some onsens won't accept people with visible tattoos (why bother with "visible"?) but all I can say is that at the monastery at Koya San this doesn't seem to be a problem. The 60-year-old Japanese man gave my inconsiderate inkling nothing more than a friendly, if incomprehensible smile. Did I mention you'll be naked? Let's go.
Outdoor onsen. Image by Isriya Pairepairit, Flickr
2. What do you do with your clothes
Most onsens are split into two, three if you count showers. There is a changing room and steam/bathroom. You enter the changing room and leave your clothes, shoes, wallet, watch, and whatever else in a small basket on a shelf. Leave the big towel here; All you need in the shower is a small washcloth to put on your head.
I never made the point of a washcloth that it would take a Titanic-sized ice cube to rest your head in there. For clothes, I would recommend something simple, like a robe. You don't want to be tripping around straps and stuff at this point.
Further Read: A Local's Guide To Visiting Japan On A Budget
3. Washing before washing
Jumping into the shower is very bad (getting fired is even worse). To the side you'll notice a row of miniature benches, each with a shower head and a bar of soap next to it. The idea is to sit uncomfortably on these benches and wash yourself thoroughly before taking a shower. And I mean totally. I saw a Japanese man wash himself the same way hippos are washed in a zoo. But it fits with the meticulous and conscientious nature of Japanese society.
As anthropologist Scott Clark said, "Bathing in Japan with an understanding of the event is experiencing something Japanese." It is immersion in the culture as well as in the water.”
"Bath" doesn't really do justice, does it? naitokz image, flickr
4. Soak in everything
The best part. There's just something fun and comforting about the indulgence of wearing anything at all. In earlier times, men and women bathed together, but monogamy has been the norm ever since Japan opened its doors (and bathtubs) to the Western world during the Meiji Restoration. The water itself looks great. It is usually at least 40 degrees or hotter, obtained from geothermal springs, and must contain (by law) at least one of 19 certain chemical elements such as iron or sulfur.
Some old Japanese guys waved at me and smiled and said something I didn't understand. I awkwardly walked back the international code for "I hope what I said wasn't an insult but I have no way of being sure."
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5. It's time to go
You'll quickly find out that onsen isn't something you can do for hours. The water is very hot. Keep more than 30 minutes and you'll come out looking like poached lobster. When you want to leave, the Japanese old men nod politely, jump up and go back to the changing room.
I have to admit, having done it once, the onsen has lost the edge of anxiety. Nobody cares about nudity there. These Japanese guys couldn't be less self-aware, and their attitude is kind of thrown off. I wouldn't say the experience turned me into a proud nudist, but it left me the most comfortable in my own skin. Bring on the bath time.
Are you ready to challenge the onsen yourself? You will need one of us Little Japan Adventures Collection.
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Main image c/o spDuchamp
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