Located in the heart of South Australia's Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, Wilpena Pound is a stunning natural amphitheater and award-winning public art space. It is a sacred place for the people of Adnyamathanha and, as Tiana Templeman discovers, the perfect place to connect with the Country.
Adnyamathanha's mentor, Clem Coulthard, always said, "How do we expect Udnyu [‘white people’, in the local language] To understand us if we don't share our culture? Clem was a master ranger in the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park in the 1980s. He had a passion for backcountry, and as Vince grew up, he decided to follow in his father's footsteps. He has been driving this land since 2018.
Our Intrepid group came to Ikara (Welpina Pound) to join him on a guided walk that sheds light on Adnyamathanha's history, stretching back thousands of years, and shares stories of the park's recent past. Learning about the country and culture of this place with a traditional guardian is a rewarding and tangible way to support the journey of reconciliation in Australia. It is one of three First Nations tours included in the seven-day Intrepid programme Flinders Ranges Explorer trip.
The magnificent mountains and rugged peaks that make up Icara stretch 17 kilometers across the quintuple landscape of Icara Flinders Ranges National Park. Together, they create a curve that forms a natural 'pound' or container, eight kilometers wide. In the Adnyamathanha language, the name Ikara means meeting place, and it continues to be a destination where people can come together and share stories.
We set off with Vince, who leads us through his people's lands and towards the remote group of farm buildings known as Old Wilpena Station. The white settlers were first seen by First Nations rangers of the Flinders Range in the 1840s, and they certainly made an impression.
"When the white men showed up, our people thought they were ghosts," says Vince.
He explains that when Adnyamathanha people died, they were covered in white mud as part of the traditional burial ceremony. As the Europeans made their way across the landscape, it seemed as if the spirits of the First Nations rangers of Icara had returned and were walking the land.
As history shows, this was not the only reason Adnyamathanha had to worry about the arrival of European settlers. It didn't take long for herdsmen to claim areas with easy access to water for themselves and their stock. The Adnyamathanha were kept away from these and other natural resources and retaliated by stealing sheep, something that did not go unpunished by the settlers.
Agriculture also affected the Adnyamathanha Land, which was no longer managed in traditional ways. As we approach Old Wilpena Station, Vince explains that it will take centuries for the area to regenerate after its cultivation.
As Australia continues to work towards reconciliation and strengthening relations between Aboriginal, Torres Strait Islander and non-indigenous peoples, the number of tours operated by First Nations Intrepid Journeys in support of this journey has increased. Like many of these experiences, our tour of Ikara includes the history of the traditional owners and those who came after them, and also looks to the future. It's an approach that works well with Vince Coulthard.
“Aboriginal culture is about sharing and it's about stories. What happened needs to be acknowledged and then we can move on.” “We cannot undo the past. This must be recognized, otherwise we cannot move forward.”
In 2009, the Adnyamathanha people were recognized as traditional owners of the Wilpena Pound and the Flinders Ranges. They have been jointly managing the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park with the South Australian government since 2011. They also own the Wilpena Pound Resort, which provides a viable way for Adnyamathanha people to work in the area and stay in the country.
“Aboriginal culture is about sharing and it's about stories. What happened needs to be acknowledged and then we can move on.”
Vince Coulthard
As we make our way through the landscape, Vince points out the hollow trees used by mothers and young children by the Adnyamathanha as shelter, and the best places to find acacia seeds to make them damp. We follow in the footsteps of Sir Douglas Mawson, who devoted most of his life to research in the region. Mawson was a geologist and lecturer at the University of Adelaide before becoming an Antarctic explorer. Even when he must be acclimatizing in preparation for the upcoming missions in sub-zero temperatures, he couldn't resist the allure of this amazing place.
When we get to the set of buildings at Old Wilpena Station, our group settles into a bench at a place known as The Meeting Place, which is also an award-winning public art space. Vince explains that Adnyamathanha is made up of two different words: lowestin the sense of rock music, and flexorPeople, there are creative stories all around us. He points to the surrounding mountains and points to Ngarri Mudlanha (St Mary Peak) twinkling in the distance.
Ngarri Mudlanha is the highest point in the Flinders Ranges and Adnyamathanha believes it is the head of the giant Akurra (serpent) which played a major role in the creation story of Ikara. Late one night, while everyone was on alert, two powerful Akura (snakes) prepared to attack. Yorlu, the Kingfisherman, saw the danger but it was too late. Only Yurlu and Walha the Wild Turkey Man manage to escape. However, the two serpents paid the ultimate price for their greedy ambush. The Acuras were so plump that they could no longer move and died where they lay, their bodies forming the walls of the pound. Look closely when you're outside walking, says Vince, and you'll see rocks that look like they're imprinted with rows of giant scales.
On our way back to the Visitor Center, turquoise Malaga parrots scurry through 500-year-old trees, creating splashes of color over a landscape rich with stories and history. Ikara is 300 meters higher than Uluru, and arguably culturally significant, but none of our group realized the impact this sacred place had on us.
That afternoon we found some flaky rocks Vince was talking about and it reminded us of two powerful Acura snakes. It's amazing what you can see when your eyes - and your heart, mind and soul - are opened to the natural wonders around you.
Want to explore Wilpena Pound on your own? Check out our 7 days Flinders Ranges Explorer trip.
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