Arguably the biggest vacancy in the fashion world, it has been the subject of frantic speculation for months: Who will take the creative reins at Gucci? Since Alessandro Michele's exit in November after a successful reign, fans and followers have been viewing Italy's fall-winter 2023 menswear show, circled in bright red ink on their calendars. The last time Gucci's creative interregnum was, eight years ago, the men's January show was Michelle's coming-out party. Until the second the lights went out on Friday at the brand's ballroom on the outskirts of Milan, guests theorized about what we were about to witness. Evolution in Michelle's romantic and extreme vision? Or a deviation in a bold new aesthetic direction?
What happened was a little bit of both. The idea behind the group was to improvise, according to the show's notes, and the first six words of it may have made some hearts racing in the audience: "Improvisation is a collaborative act." But no, this wasn't a couture collection by an outside designer brought in to force a makeover on the ambiance, a strategy popularized recently at Dior and now Louis Vuitton, who enlisted Brooklyn upstart Colm Dillane from KidSuper to build this season's men's collection. This was, according to the statement, a collaboration between the "multifaceted creators and artisans who inhabit the Gucci house."
The width was roughly divided into two halves, based on the cut of the trousers: extra wide, then skin-tight. The sweeping movement captured the loch stitching that Michele had turned into a fashion phenomenon, restoring it to its component parts. The opening look—a white shirt, oversized brown pants, and dressy shoes—indicates a go-to-basics intent, the only accessories being an oversized tote bag and navy blue beanie. Long, flared jackets are designed to balance flowing trousers, and several floor-length skirts, cut at the waist, build on Michelle's fascination with mixing gendered style codes. These were the things that Michelle's fans would easily slip into. "It's like the grandma's attic aesthetic that Alessandro created so perfectly is being deconstructed, and you see the boy who climbed into grandma's attic a little bit," said fan, playwright, and Gucci man Jeremy O. Harris. Conclusion.
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