You may find your way to the clocks through HistoryAnd Movies or across Individual watch industry playing in the nba tunnels across the floorHowever, however you develop your love for watches, you will likely find yourself at some point wondering what exactly makes them tick. The answer is, nine times out of ten (at least where luxury watches involved) is an automatic movement. While the careful fitting of the tiny gears, springs, and myriad other components of a watch quickly descends into advanced levels of nerdery (we'll save the conversation at Libra design And polished finishing for another day), you don't need an MIT degree to appreciate the basic principles behind automatic watches. And while you certainly don't need to know how your watch works to enjoy wearing it, there are actually some pretty cool things going on out there. Here's the basic rundown, along with our top picks for men's automatic watches for every budget — from slick Dress watches and a Swiss-made retrograde chronograph diving watches and stainless steel classics.
What is automatic movement?
Mechanical watch movements fall into two basic categories: manual and automatic winding. Before the invention of automatic wristwatches in the 1920s (and long before battery-powered quartz movements were invented in the 1960s) all watches were wound by hand. This means that you need to manually wind your watch every day to keep it running. An automatic watch (also called a self-winding watch) does not require this because it automatically winds with your body movement while you wear it.
How exactly is that done?
Most automatic watches wind themselves via a weighted rotor, and you'll be able to tell if your watch has a see-through case back (it's a half-moon-shaped piece right on top). When you wear the watch and move, the rotor winds with a spring that turns the hands, date wheel, and everything else that moves on the watch. To prevent your watch from stopping when you're sitting still (or when you take it off at night), automatic movements also store excess energy and slowly release it over hours or days while the rotor is stationary. This is called a "power reserve," and it usually ranges from 40 to 80 hours, and some may be up to a week or more. They're useful if you don't wear a watch every day, and you don't want to have to reset the date and time every time you wear them—especially with annual or perpetual calendar models that can be complicated.
Is there a downside to automatic watches?
It's not a downside, per se, but it does require some maintenance. Unlike a quartz watch that only requires a new battery every few years, a mechanical watch is a finely tuned machine made up of many precise and precisely calibrated parts. Watchmakers have made huge advances in shock and waterproofing over the years, but there is still a lot of abuse a mechanical movement can take. And here's the thing: Automatic watch repairs can be expensive.
What is the best way to keep the automatic machine in good condition?
If you stick to the manufacturer's recommended service schedule (you'll need an overhaul and lube every 4 to 10 years, depending on the brand and model) and don't make a habit of wearing them in the sauna, you'll probably be fine. Whether it's a $200 Amazon watch or a $200,000 watch, automatic watches are designed to be worn, so the best way to take care of your watch is to wear it as often as possible.
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